food

BILL YOSSES’ CHOCOLATE-CHOCOLATE COOKIES

The first time I met Bill Yosses he was interviewing for the position of White House pastry chef. The Chief Usher, Gary Walters, and I had been interviewing pastry chefs for a couple of months and I was struck by Bill’s easy self-confidence and positive attitude. Then he baked for the Bushes (Gary and I taste-tested also) and everyone was sold. He went on to expand his skills even further in the Obama White House, where he found new and […]

food

THE THINKING WOMAN’S CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE

Everyone loves homemade chocolate chip cookies. It’s almost impossible to make a bad one. But it’s natural to be curious about the other chocolate chip cookie recipes out there. If there’s an ingredient that hasn’t been folded into the recipe for novelty’s sake at this point (bacon, chocolate, cherries), I can’t imagine what it is. Garlic, maybe. But what if you gave a chocolate chip cookie recipe the kind of close attention and precision you’d give a soufflé or sourdough […]

food

DAMASK CHERRY PIE

I like to find recipes from former first ladies and post updated versions from time to time, and while there are a few recipes that survive from Martha Washington, there is no recipe for a cherry dessert. If she’d known how the myth of her husband admitting to chopping down a cherry tree to prove his truthfulness and integrity would grow to become a part of American folklore, I’m sure she would have left us her recipe for Tidewater cherry […]

food

BLUEBERRY PIE

Blueberries have a powerful flavor; the second one of these little blue miracles touches your tongue the brain shouts blueberry! – sweet and pure. What more could you want in a pie? Why, more of it – more blueberries piled as high as they go and covered with a dense rye flour crust. I love this crust because it’s not too sweet, balancing the overall taste experience so that the pie is not cloying (some blueberry pies can overwhelm with […]

food

RHUBARB AND BLOOD ORANGE PIE

Sometimes things just work out. I found blood oranges and fresh rhubarb at the market and it gave me the perfect opportunity to try a recipe I’ve been hanging on to for years, in the hope that one day rhubarb and blood oranges would be available at the same time of year. And voila! A sweet, tart confection for those of us who like their sugar in healthier, manageable doses. The sweet oranges complement the rhubarb perfectly; not too sweet […]