There are cold weather people and there are hot weather people. I fall firmly into the former category. Give me a frigid day crackling with icy energy any time, over the dripping humidity that is more often my fate in Washington. I got a bracing dose of perfect cold weather on a recent family vacation to Ireland. As the Irish would say, we had a grand time, from exploring Dublin pubs to lazy breakfasts of honey porridge and Irish soda bread. We walked through brilliant green woods sparkling with ice, flew falcons (with the guidance of an experienced falconer), and, best of all, I had an invigorating morning riding the County Laois countryside on a fine Connemara pony

The food was very, very good. Lots of game and good Irish beef, not to mention a wide variety of gifts from the sea – cockles, winkles, plaice, and prawns. I didn’t take as many photos of food as I should have, because whenever I get really excited about the food on offer I forget to snap and just start eating. I often realize that I ate the money shot just as I’m finishing the last bite, so my photos from this trip are more about the magical beauty of Ireland, rather than a list of good places to eat.

I do want to share the recipe for Irish soda bread that I was given. It’s the simplest thing ever, with only five ingredients, and it takes about five minutes to assemble. I was firmly admonished that real Irish soda bread has no fruit or caraway seed in it, because that would make it a “dessert cake.” There’s a reassuring hollow thud when you knock on the loaf to see if it’s done, and it’s the perfect consistency for dipping into a hearty winter stew or cheese fondue. Happy trails from the icy emerald isle!